Martha’s Bakery has taken up residence on Great North Road in Wareemba, already creating a stir among Sydney’s pastry crowd. Before dawn, the kitchen is alive with the smell of butter and spice as bakers prepare a menu shaped by Mediterranean flavours and family traditions.
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The pastry cabinet is an immediate draw. The usual suspects such as croissants, cinnamon scrolls and custard tarts sit alongside more adventurous bakes. A twice-baked almond croissant carries a hint of cardamom and rosewater, while the zaatar knot comes with a tahini dip that underlines its earthy tang. The nduja eggplant and basil creation delivers a rich umami.
For those who like their treats bold but balanced, on offer are olive oil citrus cakes, dark chocolate brownies, and cookies in flavours such as earl grey black sesame or brown butter with sea salt. On the savoury side, hand-made rolls, sourdough and rosemary focaccia form the base of sandwiches that read like full meals. There’s a kafta lamb roll layered with caponata, tzatziki and rocket, a roast chicken sourdough with tomato and avocado smash, and a focaccia stack piled with salami, mortadella, pesto, stracciatella and basil oil.
Now let's talk about coffee. There's a specialty blend, as well as a nutmeg citrus cold brew that offers a bright alternative. For something a little different, iced oat lattes in blackberry matcha or maple brown butter are poured from taps. Owner Paris Nassif says the bakery was created as a place where the classics could be played with rather than mimicked, and where people could slow down over something special and start their day feeling renewed.
Martha’s is open Wednesday to Sunday, 6am to 4pm, at 312 Great North Road, Wareemba. The 20-seat café combines banquettes, curb-side tables and a standing espresso bar, with everything available to take away.